Eradicating treatment of the garden in early spring from diseases and pests: how to spray still "bare" trees and shrubs (before bud break)

Spring comes, and together with the warm weather, garden pests and spores of fungal diseases begin their activity ...

How to protect your fruit trees and berry bushes?

That's right, to carry out early-spring eradication spraying of the garden.

Next, you will learn about when and how to treat the garden in early spring from diseases and pests, as well as what preparations (tank mixtures) are best used for this.

Why do we need garden processing in early spring: what we will eradicate

Early spring processing of the garden is one of the most important measures for the care of both fruit and berry crops, and for ornamental (the same roses, conifers).

The fact is that along with the plants their diseases and pests wake up, and it is this treatment that will allow you to get rid of from most wintering stages of insect pests, as well as from the spores of some fungal diseases, thereby preventing most of them from waking up.

When to do early spring eradication spraying

The first processing of the garden in early spring from diseases and pests must be carried out more before budding (awakening)when they (the kidneys) are dormant (completely closed).

By the way! Some experts recommend spraying on already swelling kidneys.

In this case, spraying makes sense to carry out after the snow melts and melts but only at positive temperatures (not less than +4 .. + 5 degrees during the day and preferably above 0 at night; if -1 ..- 2, then it's okay).

In other words, approximate dates are March, April... However, in no case do not be guided by the calendar - only the appearance of the plant and the phase of its development.

By the way! The first processing, as a rule, is carried out exactly after spring pruningto further protect the cut points (ideally ifthe composition of the fungicide will be exactly copper).

Is it possible to spray in the "green cone" stage

Some gardeners are of the opinion that processing on "bare" trees does not make sense, considering important and most favorable period for eradicating garden cultivation exactly phase of the "green cone", when the buds on the trees have already burst, but the leaves have not yet unfolded, although they are clearly visible (hence the "green cone"). In other words, the first spraying of the garden should be carried out after waking up, i.e. after swelling and budding.

The duration of this period ("green cone") is very short, especially if the weather is nice and sunny, the temperature is stable above +10 degrees, then the kidneys will open quite quickly. Therefore, do not postpone processing "for later".

How to properly spray your garden in spring

If you want the eradicating treatment of the garden in early spring to be as efficient as possible and at the same time safely (for you and your garden), then you need to adhere to the following basic rules and recommendations for cooking and spraying:

• When preparing solutions and spraying, you must observe safety precautions, namely to wear protective clothing, goggles, respirator, rubber gloves.
• Spraying is desirable to carry out in the morning (after the dew has dried) or in the evening (after sunset)or in the afternoon in cloudy weather (but not rainy).
• Anyway weather must be dry and windless.
• To dissolve copper and iron sulfate, it is advisable to use hot water (about + 40-50 degrees).
• Dilute copper sulfate should only in glass (for example, a jar), wooden or plastic dishes (no metal buckets).

The fact is that copper sulfate is not friendly with iron (iron objects).

But you can use them to dissolve ferrous sulfate.

• Household and any other solid soap incompatible with solution as ironand copper sulfate (copper and iron simply precipitate). Therefore, you need to use exactly liquid soapfor example will do any dishwashing detergent.

Also you can not use liquid garden "Green Soap", which, in general, is similar in composition and is simply diluted solid (the only difference is that green soap contains potassium, and household soap contains sodium).

• All prepared solutions cost pass through a filter meshso as not to clog the sprayer.

How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring: suitable preparations

As a rule, during this period they applythe simplest contact means, since the spores of the fungus have not yet penetrated deep into the plant and are in hibernation, like the hibernating stages of pests, which means that there is no point in using systemic drugs yet.

For example, you can choose from a choice for eradicating treatment Bordeaux liquid, copper orinkstone, or prepare a tank mixture based on one of the vitriol and urea (carbamide) - this will be most effective.

Advice! Forspring eradicator spraying should be preferred exactly copper sulfate, but alreadyautumn - iron.

Brief descriptions of the above fungicides (active ingredients, mode of penetration and nature of exposure are given in brackets):

• Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate + calcium hydroxide = lime, contact fungicide of protective action, a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid is applied before bud break and 1% after bud break, for example, in the "rose bud" stage);

By the way! The site has a detailed article about the preparation and use of Bordeaux liquid.

• Copper sulfate (copper sulfate, contact fungicide of protective action, 3% solution - before bud break and 1% - after bud break, for example, in the "rose bud" stage);

Advice! More details on the use of copper sulfate readin this material.

• Inkstone (ferrous sulfate, contact protective fungicide);

About, when, how and why to use iron vitriol, detailed in this article.

• Carbamide (urea);

Usually, urea is used together with copper or iron vitriol, namely, the tank mixture is being prepared.

Also during this period (early spring) you can use one of special preparations against wintering stages of pests:

• Preparation 30 plus (Vaseline oil, contact insectoacaricide from the wintering stages of pests - scale insects, pseudo-scale insects, ticks, aphids, coppers, moths, worms; spray during dormancy - in early spring).

Opinion about Preparation 30 plus: “Safe, but ineffective compared to conventional systemic insecticides, and quite expensive. The composition does not contain any toxic insect substances. The principle of action, like that of "green soap", is based on enveloping pests with an oil film, in which they should suffocate.

• Prophylactin (Vaseline oil and Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact insectoacaricide from the wintering stages of pests - ticks, aphids, scale insects, leafworms, honeycorns, etc.; perfectly handle on swelling buds, in early spring).

Note! Certainly The drug 30 plus is a stronger remedysince it includes Malathion (Karbofos).

Why use urea for early spring gardening

In this case, urea is used, so to speak, literally for "burning out" the wintering stages of pests, and in the second place - as a nitrogen fertilizer.

Of course, the complete eradication of pests will not occur, but those that hibernate on the bark or in cracks (for example, the same scabbard) will be significantly affected when the solution hits.

Early spring treatment with urea not only has a positive effect on the number of pests, but also delays bud opening (flowering) by 7-10 days. After all, it is especially important that return frosts have time to go through before flowering.

Video: early spring spraying the garden with urea (urea)

By the way! And about that how to use urea as nitrogen fertilizer, read more in this material.

Recipes for preparing tank mixtures for eradicating garden treatment

Several basic rules and recommendations for the preparation and implementation of eradication spraying with these solutions:

• It is advisable to do the processing before bud break, along the swelling ones or along the "green cone", but not later than.

However! If the leaves unfold, processing can still be carried out, but with certain restrictions. So, the concentration of solutions should be reduced by 2 times, i.e. either dilute with water 2 times, or reduce by 2 times the amount of used products. Moreover, as for strawberry, then the concentration should be reduced even by 2.5-3 times.

• Regardless of whether they are sleeping or are already awakeconifers (especially junipers), they can be processed only 2 times less concentrated solution. And if your evergreens have already started to grow, then it is better to dilute it 3 times.

Ferrous sulfate solution + urea + citric acid + humates

Solution recipe:

• First, dissolve 20-30 grams of citric acid in 1-2 liters of hot water.

Why citric acid?

The fact is that iron sulfate, when dissolved in water, oxidizes rather quickly (2-valent iron becomes 3-valent). To prevent this from happening, you must chelate ferrous sulfate = add citric acid to the solution.

• Next, add 300-500 grams of ferrous sulfate to the resulting citric acid solution.

Note! For the treatment of stone fruit crops (cherries, sweet cherries, plums, cherry plums, apricots, peaches), it is recommended to prepare a 3% solution, that is, add 300 g of ferrous sulfate.

And for pome fruits (apple, pear, quince, chokeberry = mountain ash, grape) - 4-5% solution, i.e. 400-500 gr.

For the treatment of conifers - 1-2% solution.

For destruction mosses and lichens on trees and garden tiles, as well as for treating a basement or cellar from mold - 5% solution, i.e. 500 BC

However, if you carry out the treatment with 5% solution in the "green cone" stage or even earlier, then you will not "burn" anything.

• Then you need to pour the resulting solution through the filter into the sprayer, where there are already 8-9 liters of water.
• Next, add a full 1-liter jar or 500-700 grams of urea (carbamide) to the solution.
• To adhere the solution, pour in another 200-250 ml of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid (not economic and not even liquid green!).

Optionally, you can also add potassium humate.

• Mix everything thoroughly and shake it up.
• Carry out eradication of trunks and branches, as well as mosses in the garden (lawn), stones, foundations.

Copper sulfate solution + urea+ ammonia + humates

Solution recipe:

• Take 200-300 grams of copper sulfate and first dissolve in 1-2 liters of hot water (40-50 degrees).

For the treatment of conifers - 1-2% solution.

• Then pour the resulting concentrated solution through the filter into the sprayer, where there are already 8-9 liters of water.
• Next, fill in a full 1 liter can or 500-700 grams of urea (urea).
• Add 200-250 ml liquid soap or dishwashing detergent (for better adhesion).

Important! Not solid household and not even liquid green.

• To enhance the action copper sulphate, 30-50 ml of 10% should also be added to the solution ammonia (ammonia).

Optionally, you can also add potassium humate... Although it is still undesirable to mix humates with copper sulfate.

• Mix everything thoroughly and shake.
• Apply an eradication spray to trunks and branches.

Video: eradicating treatment of an orchard from diseases and pests

Chlorine bleach and potassium monophosphate solution

If for some reason you do not want to use copper or iron sulfate, then you can use the following recipe:

• Dissolve 1 liter of chlorine bleach in 10 liters of water.

Any chlorine bleach contains sodium hypochlorite, which is a strong antiseptic.

• Next, add 100 grams of potassium monophosphate.

Potassium monophosphate is added to prevent the conversion of sodium hypochlorite to chlorine.

Thus, the solution will not contain active chlorine, which means it will be safe for human health and the environment.

• Treat trunks and branches of trees and bushes.

By the way! You can even treat (disinfect) the greenhouse with this solution before planting seedlings.

Bordeaux liquid solution

Advice! About, how to properly prepare a Bordeaux liquid solution, detailed in this separate article.

Start protecting your garden as soon as you arrive at your dacha! Early spring eradication spraying of fruit trees and berry bushes is a very, very effective measure!