Grafting apricots in spring: terms, methods and their step-by-step instructions

Thanks to the successful grafting procedure, you will be able to grow a thermophilic apricot on a zoned frost-resistant rootstock even in Siberia (which is to say about the Middle lane). But the vaccine can have other goals as well.

The features and methods of grafting apricots in spring and summer will be discussed in detail later in this article.

Why plant an apricot: the purpose and benefits of the procedure

Apricot is a thermophilic crop, which is why many of its popular varieties have low viability in regions with harsh climates. Therefore, first of all, it is with the aim improve winter hardiness apricot, it is grafted onto a more frost-resistant stock.

Why else are fruit trees grafted, namely apricots:

• You want to cultivate the wild and plant a varietal apricot on it.
• You are not satisfied with the variety and want to re-graft it to a more suitable one.
• You have a compact (small) area, and you want to have several varieties on one tree at once.
• Want to speed up fruiting.
• Save the tree (if the bark is damaged by hares or mice).
• Propagate the variety you like.

When to plant apricots in spring: optimal timing

Grafting of apricot in spring can be carried out as before the start of sap flow, i.e. when the kidneys are dormant, so after.

Note! Terms of vaccination depend on which one way you are going to plant an apricot.

When to plant an apricot in spring?

Depending on the region, on average, the vaccination is carried out starting in early spring from the end of March in the southern regions and until the beginning of May (in the Middle Lane). However, first of all, you should rely on the weather conditions of the current season and the condition of the tree.

And here is the grafting of the apricot method budding (with an eye) is done in the summer. More precisely, it must be carried out late July-early August, when the buds on the growths of this year are already ripe, and the growth of shoots will practically stop.

As for whether when is it better to take grafting material, is it possible to do this in the spring (immediately before vaccination) - we will analyze these and other issues in more detail later in a separate paragraph. For now, let's answer briefly:

Cuttings can be taken in the spring before bud break, but there is a possibility of freezing. Therefore, it is better to harvest cuttings (grafts) in autumn or early winter, before the onset of severe frosts, and store them until spring.

Which trees can be grafted with an apricot and what should be the stock

The most common tree on which varietal apricot is grafted is its wilding... Ideal if it is a wild Manchu apricot.

A varietal apricot grafted onto a wild apricot stock, as a result, as a rule, turns out to be very drought-resistant and, most importantly, winter-hardy.

However, cultivated apricot can be grafted already for grafted varietal apricot (i.e. on a mature tree).

And in general, apricot can be grafted exclusively on stone fruit crops - on plum (ideal if the soil is acidic), cherry plum, blackthorn, and partly on felt cherry, naturally, varieties exclusively zoned for your climatic zone.

However, according to reviews of many gardeners, 3-4 years after vaccination incompatibility may occur with the listed rootstocks.

Video: how to plant an apricot on a plum - 2 of the easiest ways (split and improved copulation)

And the more vaccinations, the more chances of success.

Good stock parameters

As rootstock ideally it's better to use young 1-2 year old seedlings, it is considered the best option for grafting apricots. But older trees are also suitable (in this case, as a rule, they are grafted onto their skeletal branches, but there are exceptions), while preferably no older than 10 years.

However, it should be borne in mind that the survival rate of cuttings (grafts) on a very old bark (rootstock) has very low rates.

Naturally, in the conditions of the same Middle zone (Moscow region) and other cold regions for rootstock use the most winter hardy varieties.

Annual apricots should be grafted as low as possible (5-20 cm from the ground), but two-three-year-old and older already on skeletal branches. Moreover, this must be done not just in the skeleton, but as close as possible to the trunk (20-50 cm). As for the choice of a specific branch, it is better that the stock was is directed upwards or tends to be vertical, since such branches grow much stronger, which means that the success of the survival rate of the cutting is significantly increased.

As a rule, annual cuttings (grafts) are grafted onto annual shoots (rootstocks). they are of the same diameter.

Rules for the selection and storage of grafts for grafting apricots

Next, we will consider how to properly prepare the scion in the fall and save it until the spring grafting of the apricot.

What should be a quality scion

A high-quality graft is the key to a successful vaccination!

For vaccination, you should prepare scions (cuttings) with a diameter of 5-8 mm (with a pencil), 30-40 cm long (then cut to the recommended number of buds - 2-3).

A stalk with fruit buds cannot be used, only with vegetative ones.

The grafting material should look fresh, free of frost and damage. Therefore, it is recommended to make sure of its quality before vaccination. It is very simple to check this - on the cut, the cuttings should be as light (green) as possible.

Important! One of the popular ways to determine the viability of the grafting cuttings is to bend it. If this was done easily, then the scion (stalk) is quite suitable for the procedure.

Directly during the vaccination procedure prepare the stalk (cut), leaving 2, maximum - 3 buds on it (optimally - still 2).

When to harvest and how to store cuttings (scions)

Despite the fact that pruning trees in the autumn period is undesirable, it is most convenient to harvest cuttings at this time. Therefore aboutscions (cuttings) it is worth taking care in advance and preparing them in the fall, before the onset of stable frosts.

However, this can also be done shortly before the actual vaccination procedure during the annual spring pruning apricot.

But in this case, you need to be sure to have time before the start of sap flow (swelling and even more blooming buds), while the tree is still dormant.

Video: grafting cuttings - how, where and when to cut

Storage

After harvesting the cuttings in the autumn, they must be kept in good condition until spring and to prevent the premature start of the growing season.

The best way to store cuttings is wrap them in a damp material (cloth)and even better moss or sawdust and put in a perforated bag.

In addition, they can be stored outdoors, digging in the yard (if you live in a private house), under the snow.

The main thing - keep the temperature low... Therefore, storage will go basement, cellar or refrigerator, in other words, a place where the temperature is kept in the region of 0 .. + 4 degrees.

Advice! It is imperative (at least once a month) to periodically take out and inspect the cuttings (future grafts) for mold or fungus damage.

Rules and recommendations for the apricot grafting procedure

• It is very important to keep the trees (rootstocks and scions) compatible with each other.
• Perform the operation (vaccination) at the correct time and under favorable weather conditions.

If you vaccinate in early spring, then the weather should already be warm, but not dry and hot, there should be no rain a few days before the day of vaccination.

• The vaccination procedure itself is best done in the morning.
• It is better to choose a place for grafting (on the rootstock) from the north side, in order to subsequently avoid direct sunlight (then you will not have to shade).
• Before carrying out the operation, be sure to wipe the graft site (rootstock branch) with a cloth.
• The diameter at the grafting site at the rootstock and the scion should ideally be the same. However, if the stock is thicker than the scion, then in this case it is necessary to move the scion to one of the edges, thereby aligning the cambial layers.

Note! It makes no sense to use a scion of a larger diameter than the stock, as well as to put a scion of a smaller size in the middle of the stock. in this case, there will be no contact of the cambium, which means that the vaccination simply will not take root.

• It is necessary to carry out the operation quickly so that the cut surfaces do not have time to oxidize and dry out.
• During the vaccination procedure, in no case should you touch the slices with your hands, so as not to accidentally introduce an infection.
• The same applies to the instruments used: they must be not only sharp, but clean (disinfected), otherwise an infection may get on the cut.
• The vaccination site must be wrapped as much as possible (optimally with a polymer film, but you can also use electrical tape or special tape) and cover the open parts of the graft and the cut off top of the cutting (scion) with garden pitch.

This measure is necessary to protect the vaccination site from drying out, as well as to isolate it from air and moisture.

Some gardeners, for better adhesion, put a plastic bag (bag) on ​​top of the graft, but this is not necessary at all, because it is much more important to tightly fix the vaccination site with tape.

• Do not ignore the rules of caring for a grafted tree, otherwise it may reject the cutting.
• Remember that any grafting is a risk of not too strong fusion, especially in the early years, so it is advisable to drive a peg near the tree and tie it to it.

Vaccination tools

• grafting knife (also called budding knife);

• or grafting secateurs;

Of course, you can use the usual pocket or office knife, but it must be sharpened very well.

• polyethylene tape or electrical tape;

Ideally, this is a special film, which itself is destroyed by ultraviolet rays (i.e. it does not have to be removed).

• garden var.

Answers to popular questions

Several answers to popular vaccine questions.

In the future, the paragraph will be supplemented.

Is it possible immediately (on the day of vaccination) to cut the cuttings and graft in the spring?

It is undesirable, since in spring, in warm weather, the stalk will grow quickly, not having time to take root. The kidneys will pull out all the juices from him, because of which he may die. In other words, if the buds begin to bloom before the graft takes root, then the stalk may simply dry out, since the buds will take all the nutrition from it.

Alternative opinion! However, many gardeners successfully plant cuttings that are cut right on the day of grafting. Of course, subject to access to the donor tree.

The main thing is that the kidneys do not wake up yet.

Moreover, the survival rate of such grafts can be much higher than from cuttings that have passed through storage (due to improper storage conditions, their quality could deteriorate).

When can you cut the cuttings right away?

Always with summer vaccination, namely budding (eye vaccination).

Why is it best to harvest cuttings in the fall?

The fact is that the cuttings that you prepared in the fall and stored in the cold will definitely be in a dormant state during vaccination. Thus, tissue fusion will occur before the kidneys begin to wake up.

In addition, in a harsh winter, there is a possibility of freezing of the donor's kidneys, which will worsen the result of the vaccination. In addition, in winter, and especially in early spring, nutrients are consumed, which also affects the result.

Apricot grafting methods

There are several basic methods of grafting apricots. To decide which one is better to use, you should understand the essence of their implementation.

By the way! The vaccination process in any way consists of 3 main stages:

1. preparation of stock and scion;
2. their combination;
3. protection of the vaccination site (wrapping with tape and covering with garden varnish).

Video: grafting of fruit - 3 ways (split, improved copulation, budding)

Into the cleft

In the split, as a rule, adult (thick) tree branches are grafted, but it is quite possible to graft young ones with this method.

As for the timing, the cleft inoculation is carried out while sap flow did not start, i.e. when the tree is dormant... In other words, the winter cold has receded, the temperature is already positive in the daytime - it's time to start grafting the apricot in the spring in the split.

Split grafting is performed when the stock is thicker than the scion (cutting). But in any case, the stock should not be thinner than the scion!

Moreover, if the rootstock branch is thick, then you can use 2 scions (cuttings) at once, placing them opposite each other (on opposite sides).

Next, we will clearly consider an easier way, when the stock is thin and only one cutting (scion) is placed in it.

Algorithm for grafting apricot in the spring in the split:

• cut off the branch selected as a rootstock at the required height;
• put the knife exactly in the middle and slightly press down - make a split (2-5 cm deep, depending on the thickness of the scion and rootstock);

It is desirable to insert some kind of wedge into the split, the same screwdriver.

Advice! In order not to cut your hand when splitting the stock, put a roll of electrical tape on the stock and on top of the holding hand.

• then prepare the scion (stalk) in order to insert it into the split - sharpen it on both sides so that it matches the stock and can be easily inserted;
• insert the scion into the stock and move to one edge;

It is imperative to combine the cambium layers.

• cut off the stalk, leaving 2-3 buds (the cut is done immediately above the upper bud);

• fix the grafting site with a polymer film or electrical tape (so that the tissues are in contact with each other as closely as possible);

In this case, wrap correctly from bottom to top, although many do it the other way around, i.e. from top to bottom, and everything successfully takes root.

• cover open grafting sites with garden varnish (including the top of the scion) or any other garden putty.

When, after 3-5 weeks, leaves begin to hatch from the buds, the fixing tape will need to be promptly removed so that the trunk can thicken unhindered.

This method is considered one of the simplest and most effective methods of grafting by cutting. Subject to all the rules, the survival rate of clothespins is almost 100%.

Video: how to inoculate with the cleavage method

Copulation: simple and improved

Grafting using copulation methods (simple and improved) is carried out in the spring, when the tree is at rest, i.e. before the start of sap flow.

The diameter of the scion, as well as the rootstock, must be the same. Or the stock may be slightly thicker than the scion (cutting), but in this case you will need to make sure that their cambial layers match as best as possible.

Stages of simple copulation of apricot in spring:

• Make an oblique cut on the rootstock (at an acute angle to yourself).
• Make a similar cut under the lower bud in the same direction.

The cut on the rootstock and the scion should be made of the same length, at the same angle and preferably in one motion.

• Align two slices.
• Tightly fix (wrap) the vaccination site with a special bandage (plastic film).
• Cut off the top of the cutting (scion), leaving 2-3 buds (above the upper bud) and cover it with garden putty.

Video: grafting apricot with simple copulation

The nuances of grafting apricots using the improved copulation method:

• Similar to simple copulation, oblique cuts must be made on the rootstock and scion.
• Then, stepping back from the upper edge of the cut by 1/3 of the length, we make a "tongue" (cut 10-12 mm deep into the shoot).
• We make the same "tongue" on the scion.
• We insert the scion into the stock, in other words, we start "tongues" for each other.

• Further, all the standard actions: we tightly wrap the graft site with foil, not forgetting to cut the scion over 2 or 3 buds and process (cover) it (cut) with garden varnish.

Video: improved copulation vaccination

By the way! It is very convenient to use special grafting secateurs for grafting!

Video: grafting an apricot in the spring with improved copulation using an omego-shaped grafting pruner

For the bark

The bark is already being vaccinated during sap flowwhen the trees are close to blooming and the leaves have long blossomed.Therefore, in this case, you can use only pre-prepared cuttings (with dormant buds).

This method is used for grafting on an adult tree (but preferably not older than 10 years). To do this, the main tree trunk is cut down (for example, to re-graft) at a height of 70-100 cm or its skeletal branch (at a distance of 20-40 cm from the central trunk), and several cuttings are inserted simultaneously behind the bark, but so that they do not touch each other with a friend.

Algorithm for spring grafting of apricot bark:

• Cut the central trunk or skeletal branch.
• Then make cuts in the bark 3-4 cm long. The wider the trunk, the more cuttings can be implanted into it.

Alternatively, you can make holes between the bark and the wood - drive in pegs (the size of the scion) to move the bark away from the wood.

• Now you need to prepare the cuttings (grafts). At the bottom of the cutting, cut an oblique cut and leave 2-3 buds.
• Insert the grafts into the bark of the rootstock.

• Next, you need to tightly fix the cuttings with tape and cover the open grafting sites and the upper cut of the cutting with garden varnish so that the graft does not dry out or moisture does not get into it.

Video: grafting fruit trees for the bark

Note! Grafting for the bark, although it has a high survival rate, but it has one, but a very significant drawback: under the grafted branches, when they are under harvest (and just to protect against strong wind), it is imperative to put props, otherwise the weight of their fruits will break off.

In splitting or improved copulation, grafting is much more reliable.

Side cut

The optimal time for grafting an apricot into a side cut is the second half of spring, when vegetation (sap flow) has already begun... As with any spring grafting, as a scion, you need to use a strictly dormant stalk, harvested in autumn or early spring, when the tree was still dormant.

This method of grafting is used when it is necessary to rejuvenate an adult tree or for the purpose of domesticating wild rootstocks (wild animals).

The essence of the lateral incision grafting method is that the graft is grafted on the side of the rootstock by inserting it into a small incision.

The main advantage of this method is that the scion grows very tightly and reliably with the stock.

The sequence of grafting apricot in the spring in the lateral incision:

• Make a side cut on the rootstock. At the same time, he must look in the direction we need.

To do this, position the knife at an angle of 15-30 degrees to the trunk so as to cut not only the bark, but also some of the wood.

• Prepare the scion: make a wedge at the bottom of the cutting by making an oblique double-sided cut. And on top, as usual, leave 2-3 buds.

Please note that the depth of the cut on the rootstock must match the length of the cut on the rootstock.

• Insert the handle into the cut.

In this case, it is optimal to combine the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock from all sides or at least one.

• Secure (wrap) the graft site tightly with tape.

• Cover the top of the cutting (scion) with garden varnish.

Video: grafting into the lateral incision of the skeletal branch

Video: grafting into the side of a young seedling

By the way! Side slit grafting, along with cleft grafting and improved copulation, are considered to be the main grafting methods most commonly used in hobby gardening.

Budding (grafting with an eye)

Apricot grafting by budding method should be carried out late summer - late July - early August, when the buds on the growths of this year are already ripe, and the growth of shoots will practically stop.

If you do this ahead of time, then the buds may germinate in the fall, which means they most likely will not survive the winter. On the contrary, if you are late, then the eyes simply will not have time to take root in the stock, since there will not be enough juice in its cambial layers.

This method is used for grafting both very young seedlings - wild birds (i.e. directly into the central conductor), and for grafting skeletal branches (1-3 years old) of already mature trees.

The essence of grafting with an eye is that it is grafted onto the stock not a whole stalk, but only a bud (eye) of a scion... In other words, budding is the transfer of a bud from one tree to another.

By the way! You can also perform spring budding, but you must definitely wait for the start of sap flow.

The sequence of summer grafting of apricot by budding method:

In the evening, spill the seedling well, and do the budding itself in the morning, as well as cut the cuttings (at this time they are maximally saturated with moisture).

• Remove all the lower branches and wipe the rootstock trunk from dirt and dust (the place where you will graft). In this case, it is better to choose the northern side of the branch to avoid direct sunlight.

Budding of young seedlings, as a rule, is carried out at a height of 3 to 25 cm from the surface of the earth. The higher we make budding, the lower the growth rate of the seedling will be.

• Cut the bark into the rootstock at the site of the future grafting with the letter "T" (T-shaped cut).

Or you can do it a little differently: make a bottom notch at a 45-degree angle inward, and then an upper notch down to the bottom notch. In this case, the cut out part of the bark is thrown away (it is of this shape that we will need the scion).

• Next, you need to cut off the bud (eye) with the base (with a shield), and first cut off the stalk itself and remove all the leaves from it, but leave their petioles;

Under and above the kidney, we make one short cut, and then turn the knife over and start cutting from the bottom up, cutting off the kidney with a shield (with a base). After cutting, the top of the shield is between the knife and the thumb.

• Now you need to drive the resulting bud with a base (with a shield) under the bark (put in a pocket) of the rootstock.

Ideally, the flap should perfectly match the rootstock cut. If it turns out to be a little longer, then after you place it in the pocket on the rootstock, the top can be trimmed.

If the scion is thinner than the rootstock, then it is better to apply the shield to one of the cut edges on the rootstock (to combine the cambial layers).

• Next, you need to tightly wrap the grafting site with tape from above, while leaving the eye open.

Advice! For the winter, it is better to cover the grafting site with earth or cover it with snow, and first remove the tape (3-4 weeks after budding, when the kidney takes root).

• In the spring you get bored and trim the tree right above your grafted bud.
• Watch the growth of the shoot from the bud and tie it up in time so that the trunk (stem) is not crooked.

Video: budding apricot

But it's better to watch this more detailed video on budding for beginners:

By the bridge

This vaccination method is used to save a tree damaged (gnawed) in winter by hares or mice.

Note! Bridge inoculation is performed only when ring damage, in other cases (if there is even a small isthmus of the bark) you just need to cover the bare trunk with garden pitch.

The essence of the grafting is to restore the nutrition of the tree (its sap flow), for which a special bridge of cuttings is used (and not necessarily varietal, wilds are also suitable).

The optimal timing of the "saving" grafting of apricot with a bridge is after the start of active sap flow.

If you notice damage even before sap flow, then they should be covered with garden pitch.

The procedure for grafting apricot with a bridge in spring:

At least 2 bridges are made on the tree. Since 1 bridge may not take root, it is better to play it safe.

• Clean the place of damage from the garden varnish, clean the bark to a healthy place, wipe it, and then make T-shaped cuts in the bark below and above (or you can just make cuts under the bark) 3-4 cm long;
• Next, prepare the cuttings: you need to remove all the buds from them, and then make long and oblique cuts at both ends (at least 3, and preferably 4 cm).

• Now you need to slightly bend the bark and insert the cuttings into the cuts;

The bridge should have an "arcuate" shape.

• All that remains is to fix the grafting with tape and cover the open areas with garden varnish.

Some gardeners even nail the stalk from the bottom and top with nails.

Video: grafting with a bridge a tree gnawed by mice

Apricot care after vaccination

It will be possible to understand that the vaccination was successful after 3-5 weeks, when the buds begin to open and green leaves appear.

And first, you should periodically check the vaccination site, because the cut can dry out due to a violation of the tightness of the strapping and putty, which in turn can occur due to fluctuations in spring temperatures.

When the graft grows together and the stalk begins to grow, you need to provide the apricot with the necessary care that will help the graft take root better.

• If possible, shade the vaccination site, protecting it from direct sunlight.

Alternatively, you can get the vaccine directly from the north side.

• A couple of weeks after the buds open and the leaves appear, it is required to loosen or completely remove the harness (electrical tape) so that the trunk can thicken freely.
• It is very important to promptly cut off young growth below the grafting site so that the tree directs nutrients to the taking root.
• If the scion suddenly blooms, then the flowers must be removed.
• After 1-2 years, the grafted stalk will need to be shaped.

Indeed, the apricot grafting procedure, especially at first glance, looks like a rather complicated garden manipulation. Therefore, you should definitely follow the basic rules and take into account the recommendations, acting exactly according to the instructions.

Important! Novice gardeners shouldn't be upset if not everything goes smoothly the first time. Only with experience do the necessary skills come, which are developed over the years.

Video: the main ways of grafting fruit trees and their results