Pruning apricots in the spring for a good harvest

Apricot is characterized by rapid growth of shoots, as a result of which its crown overgrows, which significantly reduces productivity. In addition, over time, the tree grows old and stops bearing fruit. To extend the life of the tree and improve its functionality, timely spring pruning, including anti-aging, should be carried out.

About when and how to properly prune an apricot in spring, read further in our detailed article.

Why prune an apricot: the purpose and objectives of spring pruning

So, the main and final goal of pruning an apricot (like any other plant) is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop, as well as to take care of the health of the tree itself (so that it bears fruit as long as possible).

Thus, by pruning an apricot in spring, you solve the following tasks aimed at achieving the above goal:

• improved access to sunlight;
• ensuring optimal ventilation inside the crown;
• disease prevention.

In other words, apricot pruning is carried out in order to:

• correctly form the tree so that it has a comfortable crown and gives stable yields;

Also, thanks to the formation of the correct crown by cutting it behind the tree, it becomes easy to care for, and the most important thing - harvest.

• adjust the growth of the tree, i.e. increase or decrease;
• eliminate the frequency of fruiting (so that a situation does not arise when one year the plant bears very abundant fruit, and the next there is nothing);
• improve the quality of the fruits (after correct pruning, the fruits become larger and tastier).

When to prune apricots in spring: optimal timing

Spring pruning of apricot must be done before the start of sap flow (those. before bud break), in other words, when the tree should still be sleeping.

If you decide to prune during active sap flow, then the apricot may begin gum flow.

Controversial! At the same time, some gardeners advise to carry out the procedure when sub-zero temperatures are still confidently holding (but not lower than -10 degrees), while others recommend that the air temperature, on the contrary, be positive (about +5). In any case, the duration of the pruning period is before bud break.

Of course, it is quite difficult to name the exact dates: spring in different regions starts at different times depending on the climate. The main thing is to be in time before the start of sap flow.

However, one can call approximate (tentative) terms... So, pruning of apricot in the spring in the Middle Lane (Moscow region), as a rule, is carried out already in late March - early April, in the South of Russia - in late February-March. And in more northern (in the North-West - in the Leningrad region) and colder regions (in the Urals and Siberia), spring pruning of apricots is carried out in the second half of April.

When is the best time to prune - in spring or autumn

According to most agronomists, the best time to prune fruit trees is early spring, and you must be in time before the start of sap flow... In addition, the shorter the time between pruning and the start of sap flow, the better. In addition to conserving energy, with the beginning of sap flow, the tree's own defense mechanisms "turn on", which means that pathogenic organisms have practically no chance to penetrate into the "tree system".

As for the autumn pruning, it noticeably weakens the trees, their winter hardiness decreases. Therefore, it is believed that only winter-hardy breeds (varieties) can be cut in autumn, which tolerate frost well and are not at all afraid of freezing.

Note! There is a rather controversial opinion that only pome crops (apples, pears) can be cut in the fall, while stone fruits (apricots, peaches, plums, cherries) can only be cut in spring.

In addition, in autumn, trees, on the contrary, suspend any active defense (their own defense mechanisms), while fungal spores are still flying in myriads. In addition, with the onset of frost, the cambium freezes over, and it becomes difficult to overgrow the wounds after pruning.

Thus, pruning apricots is best in spring. Autumn pruning is resorted to only if in the spring you have little time (you did not have time) or / and the variety is frost-resistant enough.

As for the time, the autumn pruning of the apricot can be started when all the leaves of the tree have completely fallen off.At the same time, it is important that the air temperature is positive, since trimming must be completely stopped already at a temperature of -5 degrees. It is in such conditions that wood freezes and becomes brittle and brittle.

Preparing for spring pruning apricot

Every novice gardener must first understand the structure and structure of his apricot tree himself, in order to then better understand the basic rules for pruning it. And, of course, have all the required tools in your summer cottage arsenal. Let's start with them.

Tools

To perform apricot pruning work, you will need the following tools and products for treating wounds after pruning:

• regular hand pruner (for thin branches);
• garden knife (for very thin branches and for removing "burrs");
• garden saw-hacksaw (for thick branches);
• secateurs with long handles (for the upper thin branches);
• stepladder (for the convenience of removing the upper branches);
• oil paint (based on drying oil) or just natural drying oil, linseed oil or brilliant green. Alternatively, you can mix iodine and alcohol (1 to 1) or buy a garden var or a special Rannet paste.

Advice! All tools must be in proper and prepared condition - the pruner must be sharp (sharpened) and clean (or even better, disinfect it before trimming).

The structure of the tree: its structure

Before you start pruning, carefully examine your apricot tree, its silhouette. And then figure out which branches clearly look superfluous (in accordance with the rules below) and only then proceed with the direct pruning.

According to the rules, any tree should have a balanced or, more precisely, a crown evenly branched in all directions.

Thus, in order to carry out pruning according to all the rules, you need to know the structure of the tree. Therefore, first it is worth studying and understanding its structure:

You also need to be able to distinguish branch age, which is determined by the annual kidney rings located at the base of annual growths.

It is also important to distinguish kidney types:

• vegetative (growth, leaf) - from which new shoots and leaves develop (they are smaller and can be easily seen on a one-year growth);
• fruit (floral) - from which flowers are first formed, and then the fruits (larger, are located on fruit wood).

By the way! Flower buds can also form on annual growths, especially in apricots. Although fruit wood is usually called 2-6 year old wood.

Fruit formations of apricot (like all stone fruits) are spurs or thorns, bouquet twigs. Although by mistake (by analogy with apple trees and pears, i.e. pome trees), they are called lances and fruit twigs.

In any case, you must easily distinguish between fruit formations and branches so that they do not accidentally remove when pruning!

For example, in the following video, the author says it is essentially true, albeit in not entirely correct terms:

Video: apricot fruit formations - spears (thorns), twigs

Types and methods of trimming

Before moving on to the types and methods of pruning, you should familiarize yourself with the age periods that each fruit tree goes through:

• growth vegetative parts;
• growth and fruiting (from first fruiting to stable yields);
• fruiting and growth (from stable fruiting to maximum yield, while the activity of growth processes gradually decreases);
• fruiting (maximum yield);
• fruiting and drying out (growth processes die out, fruiting begins to decline).

According to them, there are various types of trim:

• Formative (for young trees) - helps to form a crown of the correct shape and create a strong tree skeleton.
• Regulatory (for fruiting ones) - to regulate fruiting.
• Anti-aging - (for old trees) - for their rejuvenation. However, it is usually held in several stages every spring.

• Sanitary - it is used for trees of all ages in order to clean the crown from diseased, dried and broken branches. It is carried out as needed, regardless of the season.

As a general rule, all types of trimming are generally recommended.

There are also pruning methods (sometimes mistakenly referred to as species):

• Shortening - during such pruning, the shoots are not cut completely "into the ring", but only are shortened by the "kidney" (as a rule, to the external one), which enhances the branching of skeletal branches and stimulates fruit formations, and also serves to subordinate the branches and rejuvenate the wood.

You can shorten both one-year growth and perennial branches.

There are 3 types of shortening: strong (by 1/3), medium (by 1/4) and weak (by 1/5).

Strong - for the formation of strong shoots, weak - for laying fruit wood.

• Thinning - is carried out in order to rid the tree of unnecessary shoots that thicken and shade the crown. In this case, the branches are completely removed. "On the ring".

Remember! The more light will fall on the branches, so above will be yield... A no thickening and good air circulation inside branches - reliable protection against fungal diseases.

Basic rules and technique for pruning apricot

Consider how to act during pruning: how to hold the pruner and how to directly prune the branches.

The principle of subordination of branches

It is very important to observe the principle of subordination of branches, that is, all side branches (skeletal branches) obey the guide (central trunk) and should not be higher than it. This also applies to growth on skeletal branches.

How to hold a secateurs

Pruning shear blade should be always below.

Wrong, if the pruner is facing downward with an emphasis, not a blade.

When you delete branch completely, then trimming is done "On the ring" (most often "for translation") when cut only partthen "Kidney"... Let's consider further in more detail.

Kidney pruning

The essence of this pruning is that when you thin out the crown, it is not at all necessary to cut the young branch completely. It is much more effective to prune it to the outer bud (facing outward upward, not inward or downward) to change the direction of its growth. In this case, it is necessary to cut in such a way that the top of the cut reaches the top of the kidney, and the base of the cut is at the level of the base of the kidney. Then the cut will heal well.

Worth knowing! Do not get carried away with pruning "to the kidney", because many small cuts weaken the tree more than a few large ones.

Important! You need to cut on the growth (vegetative) kidney, but not to flower (fruit). See differences above (vegetative less than fruit).

Cutting "to the ring"

The point is to completely cut the branch, and you need to cut it along the trunk (along the annular ridge - a thickened ridge at the base of the branch), namely, the saw line should pass along the bisector between the axis of the trunk and be perpendicular to the branch.

Rules for 3 cuts (cuts)

When pruning old and thick branches on the "ring", adhere to the rule of three cuts (cuts):

1. It is always necessary to cut a branch from the bottom, otherwise it can break under its own weight (weight), due to which a bark scuff is formed (similar to a torn burr on a finger). Thus, during the first cut, the branch is cut by 1/3.
2. The next cut is already done from above, while noticeably higher than the first. As a result, the branch is completely cut (otherwise it may break off).
3. As a result, you will have a stump, which will need to be cut down with the third cut, while making it from above exactly "along the ring" (perpendicular to the branch trunk), leaving an annular overlay.

If any burrs remain, they should be trimmed with a sharp garden knife.

This is the only way to get a neat and correct cut.

Cropping "for translation"

Prune branches "On the ring" need to only "for translation", i.e.on a branch or shoot, which will further provide the cut with nutrients and heal it. In this case, the branch (shoot) of the supply should be no thinner than 1/3 of the cut diameter.

Other important pruning rules:

• Cropping should be balanced... If pruned heavily, the plant will sprout many shoots and yield low yields. If, on the contrary, the pruning is weak, then the harvest will be too much and the frequency of fruiting may occur (next year there will be nothing). Usually, at once recommended cut no more than 1 / 4-1 / 3 crown, this especially applies to old trees, including when they are "rejuvenated".
• Vertical branches (tops) are actively growing, and horizontal ones bear fruit.

Treatment of wounds (sections) after pruning

The wounds (sections) remaining after trimming must be processed according to all the rules:

• So that moisture does not get into the cut and rotting does not begin (due to a fungal or bacterial infection falling into the cut), it should be covered with a special agent. As a rule, this is used garden var.

Important! According to some gardeners, garden var is more harmful than beneficial. Now a more effective and useful remedy for treating wounds after pruning is a garden paste-putty "Rannet"... However, if there are still frosts (even small ones), then processing with oil paint will be more effectivesince garden var and "RanNet" paste at subzero temperatures can freeze and peel off. Also fit natural drying oil, linseed oil and brilliant green (everyone does not freeze). And you can mix 1 to 1 iodine and alcohol.

• Obviously, the smaller the cut area, the easier it is for the tree to heal the wound. So if a cut with a diameter of up to 2-3 cm, then it is not smeared at all. Have very large cuts only need to be processed at the edges to protect the cambium from drying out.
• It is especially important to cover up large sliceswhich are made "on the ring "on skeletal branches and trunk.

If cancerous ulcers form on them, then it will be very difficult to cure them, which means that you can lose the skeletal branch or, even worse, the entire tree (if on a trunk).

• But when pruning "Kidney" the cut diameter is small enough and does not need processing.

Video: how to properly handle fruit tree cuts

What branches to cut and prune from apricot in spring

Now let's consider which branches are subject to complete removal, and which ones only need to be cut.

ATTENTION! Be sure to read the material to the end and only then proceed to pruning your apricot.

In order not to harm the plant instead of benefit, it is required to strictly follow the rules for pruning.

• First of all, you need to delete all diseased branches... Moreover, they need to be postponed separately, and then destroyed, burned.

Important! BOlives should be trimmed to healthy wood. In this case, it is advisable to do this "On the ring", method "For translation".

• Also all broken and broken branches, which, most likely, are also affected by some kind of disease.
• Get rid of everyone crooked branches (growing through other branches or crossing, "rubbing against each other") and from branches growing inside the crownthat shade good branches.

By the way! Such branches can be removed completely (by cutting "into a ring"), or they can be translated "to fruiting" by cutting "to a bud", while it must look outward (if you do the opposite, the operation will be meaningless).

• Absolutely not needed branches growing at a very sharp angle (ie, their angle of departure is less than 40-45 degrees) and forming the so-called "forks". They are also cut out

Due to the load of fruits, such a branch can simply crack and a severe wound is formed.

• As you understood from the picture above, in addition, you need cut off all branches growing down (at an obtuse angle).
• Are subject to removal all tops (vertical shoots on skeletal branches, they are also called "wen"), and root suckers.

By the way! Tops can be used for spring grafting apricot.

• You also need to cut all shoots below the first tier (so they don't hang directly above the ground).

In short, pruning all unnecessary and interfering branches, which thicken and shade the crown, and also make it difficult to ventilate the tree.

• Very important leave no competing branches (or thus replace old ones with new ones), cutting them off "For translation".

This is especially true for branches competing with the conductor (main trunk). For example, if they have already become the same thickness, and both tend upward.

However, thick branches should not be pruned in one year. It is better to first remove most of the branches of the second order, and the next year to get rid of the competitor completely.

• For the best branching and stimulating fruit formations can be shortened "On the kidney", 1/3 (to the external kidney), all continuation branches — one-year increment.

Note! It is not necessary to shorten the already short branches (up to 20-30 cm), on the tips of which there are flower (fruit) buds - they have the whole harvest on them. Long (more than 40-50 cm) annual growth branches (with vegetative buds) are subject to pruning.

Thus, by trimming the tree, you can change the direction of its branching. In this case, it is necessary that the apricot horizontal branches predominated. From vertical is it worth either get rid of completely, or artificiallyredirect them.

How to prune young and old apricots: shaping and rejuvenating pruning

Depending on the age of the trees, the specificity of pruning is also different - the formation of a young apricot (from the moment the seedling is planted) and the rejuvenation of the old culture.

For young seedlings, a shaping procedure is carried out, which helps to form the crown and strengthen the skeleton of the tree. For old trees, a rejuvenating procedure is applied, the purpose of which is to restore the regularity of fruiting.

Ways (types) of forming apricot: types of crowns

Any trimming should be based on the shaping!

However, one must understand that shaping and pruning are different actions. If you can still “freak out” with shaping (go into creativity), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.

The method of shaping depends on the strength of growth of the apricot (variety) (which rootstock is weak, medium or vigorous), the ability to branch. It is also important to know what you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully designed tree.

Types of tree crowns

• discharged-tiered;

One of the most popular types of forming fruit trees, including apricots.

• cupped (vase-shaped);

The second most popular type of shaping and, perhaps, the most popular for apricot shaping.

• fusiform (Spindle bush);

• flat forms - palmettes and cordons;
• and many others.

The theory of the formation of an apricot in the form of a bowl is described in detail and clearly shown in the following videos:

Video: pruning an apricot 1 year after planting for future shaping in the form of a bowl

Video: pruning an apricot 2 years after planting (bowl-shaped)

Discharged-tiered apricot shaping: pruning a 1,2,3,4-year-old tree

As a rule, young apricots are formed every spring, however, autumn formative pruning is allowed (but very undesirable).

Note! Which branches to delete, and which ones to leave, exactly how to cut them - everything is detailed and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraphs.

Next, we will consider how to correctly form an apricot, if you have chosen a discharged-tiered type of formation:

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is already planted..

• right after spring planting (that is, we already have a 1 or 2-year-old seedling) - the main branch (central conductor) is cut off, or rather the top for 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that side branches form at the tree, otherwise speaking, the first tier was formed.

It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

• for 2 years - lateral branches are formed near the tree, which should be cut to 1/3 of their length (to the outer bud), and only 2-3 of the strongest (ideally - 3), growing horizontally in different directions, should be left, and the rest should be cut “into a ring ". You should also trim the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the branching of the first tier (from the uppermost lateral branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. AND do not forget about subordination (trimming should be carried out at the same level).

Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier - 10-15 cm. The height of the trunk is 50-80 cm (but 80-100 cm is also possible).

• for 3 years - the lateral branches are cut off again, as well as young growth (branches of the second order) on these branches, again by 1/3, "per bud". In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally - 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/3. The top of the central trunk is trimmed again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.

The central conductor (main trunk) should be one, therefore all its competitors should be cut “on the ring”.

• for 4 years - the last year of apricot formation (if you form in 3 tiers). Everything is done similarly to the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut off), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut "into a ring", by transferring to a side branch (3 branch).

Remember to follow the principle subordination of branches, Tier 1 - the longest branches, tier 2 - shorter, tier 3 - the shortest.

• For 5 years and beyond it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also not to overlook sanitary and thinning.

Advice! The optimal height of a tree from which it is convenient to harvest is no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even better 2-3 m.

How to bowl an apricot: pruning a 1, 2 year old tree

If you want to form an apricot in the form of a bowl (simple), then pruning is carried out in the following sequence (by year):

• Immediately after spring planting or at 1 year - in the absence of branching (side branches) on the seedling, you need to cut the main branch (central conductor) to a height of 50-60 cm (60-80 is possible), so that the tree has side branches.

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is already planted., i.e. if the seedling already has ramifications, so see the next step.

• Next year (2 years) - the tree has lateral branches, which should be shortened by 1/3 (leaving 30-50 cm) on the outer bud. At the same time, you need to leave only 3-4 of the strongest (those growing close to the ground also do not fit), growing at an angle (rather horizontally than vertically) in different directions. Also, by transferring to the lateral shoot, the top should be cut off the "ring".
• For the 2nd or 3rd year ... One-year increments were formed on each of the lateral branches. Now you need to choose 2-3 shoots on each of the branches, and cut out all the rest, which are located close to the stem and thicken the crown, “into a ring”. The 2-3 remaining shoots are shortened by about 1/3, leaving 30-50 cm each.

As a result, your tree in the form of a bowl should have 8-12 main branches (3-4 of the first order and 4-8 of the second), from which you will receive a harvest from year to year.

Naturally, in the future you will have to trim them - regulate their growth and carry out anti-aging pruning.

In the next video, the author shows a not quite classic bowl formation:

Video: shaping apricot in the shape of a late or belated bowl

Important! Do not forget in autumn or late winter-early spring whitewash apricots (similar to apple trees), especially young people, because they still have a thin bark and can easily burn it. They are whitened to protect against sunburn, especially at the end of winter, when trees on the south side receive an increased dose of solar insolation, directly from the sun, and also reflected from the snow. You can, of course, not whitewash, but shade on the south side, for example, with a wide board, or wrap it in nonwoven material (spunbond).

Video: shaping apricot with a low crown (cup-shaped)

Rejuvenating old apricot

If you have an old apricot tree in your garden that bears little fruit, then rejuvenating pruning can and should be done to improve yield and increase its life.

Important! The main sign of the need for rejuvenating pruning of apricot is a weak annual growth of branches - less than 20 cm.

However, first you need to make sure that the selected tree is old but healthy, in other words, if it is not sick. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten its death.

The essence of rejuvenating apricot pruning in spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more fertile ones.

Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate, you don't need to cut everything (which will be listed below) in the first year.

If you remove too many branches at oncethen apricot, maybe shut up (release a lot of tops). However, everything can be easy fix summer pinching (removal of green young shoots - tops, if they grew "not there" or went to grow "not there").

Step-by-step instructions for rejuvenating pruning of old apricots in spring:

Remember! It is only necessary to prune "for a ring" by removing "for transfer" (for lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

• First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches are subject to removal (sanitary pruning).
• Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches, which literally hang above the ground.
• Completely cut out “on the ring” all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and shade the crown (growing inside the crown, crossing, competing, growing with a “fork”).

During rejuvenation, the advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut or prune ("bud") a huge number of young thin shoots.

• Get rid of all tops (vertical branches - "wen"), again "on the ring".

Advice! Tops can be used for grafting apricot.

• Pinch (cut to the "bud") all young shoots, the height of which is more than 40-50 cm.

Video: correct anti-aging pruning of apricot in spring

You can also watch this detailed video on the principles of anti-aging pruning of old trees:

Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning

By the way! Exists the cardinal way to rejuvenate very old apricots (pruning to hemp). You can see about her in the following video:

Video: hard pruning apricot

How to hold a crown or what to do if a tree grows up

Obviously, trees cannot be left unattended. It is enough not to cut the apricot for a couple of years to make it fly up.

Of course, you can do nothing, but so that you can fine harvest and spend processing apricots from diseases and pests, restraining the crown of the tree is simply necessary.

That is why, first of all, in this situation you need to spend thinning pruning, and at the end - remove all the highest vertical shoots "transfer to the ring " to lateral, in other words, transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.

However, all vertical branches should not be cut out at a time, but you can enhance their fruiting by making small ones above each vegetative (growth) bud notches with a hacksaw, which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will be laid.

Can also be shortened by 1/3 all last year's increase, which formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top, "Kidney".

Moreover, in this way you need to do every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and give a one-year growth every year.

Video: how to prune an apricot to hold the crown and preserve the harvest

and complementary:

Popular mistakes that occur during spring pruning of apricots among novice garden surgeons

The most common mistake when pruning apricots and other fruit trees is incorrect pruning. "On the kidney", when pruning is done either below the kidney (in which case it can freeze out), or too large a stump is left (which simply does not heal, it can rot and an infection will surely get through it). Correct cut must be done just above the kidney. Wherein bud should be at the level bottom cut.

Likewise for trimming "On the ring"when you leave too much foam, on which completely useless branches then grow, only taking away the strength from the tree. Moreover, the stump itself gradually begins to rot, its bark flakes off. Also, you cannot (it is even more dangerous) cut too low, with the ring removed.

Other common mistakes beginners make when pruning apricots in spring:

• Pruning is carried out in wrong timing... The worst time for pruning is mid-summer, so if you carry out the procedure at this time, you can permanently weaken the tree and slow down its growth. It is better then in the fall (after leaf fall), but optimally - in early spring, before bud break.
• Not cut sick, dry and broken branches (sanitary pruning is not carried out).
• Remains too many extra branches, which shade the crown and do not allow it to blow normally (no air access).
• It is impossible scratch out a hollow "to healthy wood", hammer it with bricks or something else, for example, pour concrete, foam etc.

Filling just the opposite, accelerates decay wood trunk and shortens the life of the tree.

• No need for special prune old branches on which mosses and lichens.

It's another matter if young thin branches of trees are covered with moss, then in this case you need a rejuvenating pruning of the entire tree (especially old branches).

Thus, if you annually and in a timely manner carry out high-quality spring pruning of apricots according to all the rules, then the tree will definitely reward you with a large number of delicious apricots. After all, only a healthy tree with a properly formed crown can give stable yields.

Video: how to trim an apricot

Of course, when you read and see diagrams, pictures, then everything seems simple and easy. But for some reason, when you approach your tree, everything becomes incomprehensible.

Well, that's okay. The main thing - no need to be afraid and just practice more often, because everything comes with experience.

In addition, pruning is, in a sense, a creative process: after all, the same branch (skeletal) can be pruned in different ways.

Advice! Alternatively, you can print yourself a cheat sheet with all the schemes and cropping rules.